Practical tips
Best time
It sits on the equator but above a thousand metres, so the climate is mild all year rather than punishing. There are two rainy seasons and two drier ones, and the dry seasons are better for gorilla trekking, because the forest is less slippery.
Languages
English is official and so is Swahili, though it is heard less in the centre and south. Luganda is the lingua franca of Kampala and the central region, and there are more than forty languages in the country. Learning greetings in Luganda is noticed immediately.
Etiquette
Greet at length before turning to any business: asking after family and journey is part of it, and going straight to the point is what reads as rude. Receive with both hands, or the right. Dress more conservatively outside Kampala. The rest of the practical guide is in preparation.
What to see & culture
Places
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, a World Heritage site and home to nearly half the world's mountain gorillas; Murchison Falls, where the Nile squeezes through a seven-metre gorge; the Rwenzori mountains, with glaciers on the equator; Queen Elizabeth park and its Kazinga channel; and the Ssese islands in Lake Victoria.
Culture
A country of kingdoms that still exist as cultural institutions — Buganda, Bunyoro, Toro, Busoga — inside a republic. From that come the Kasubi Tombs of the Buganda kings, a World Heritage site, and a drumming and dance tradition still tied to those courts. Independence dates from 1962.
Food
Matoke, green banana steamed in leaves and mashed, is the reference staple, with groundnut or meat sauce. The rolex — an omelette rolled in a chapati — is street food born in Kampala and now national. Lake Victoria gives tilapia and Nile perch, and coffee and tea grow in the highlands.